GrootWitBaas Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 sound good to me. I also believe the back should stay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawiinci Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 I have to make on design change. The cables enter through the "power hole" at the bottom instead through the floor. This avoids to have visible cables on the floor, the cables don't have to bend and it' more accessible. Only problem is that I can't do this with the DVI-Cable. The hole is too small. I don't want to cut it because it would damage the cables if i just make it bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrootWitBaas Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 get a backplate with dvi to dvi that you can put on the original back plane, and then to the DVI. This avoids any cuts and it will look neat. There is a example of this on one of these threads, I'll see if I can find it and link it here Here on post 356 page 18 by nervouschimp There are more, but this should give the general idea Groot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawiinci Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Thanks for that. However it's difficult to get those. The only ones I could get are either very expensive or too long. Displayport would probably fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okolowicz Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Could someone with experience modding the top shelf tell me whether the latches and/or latch mechanism for the side panel are part of the shelf or independent of the shelf (i.e. just part of the divider bar). I'd like remove the shelf and replace it with a flat shelf. However, I don't want to remove it simply to find out the latch mechanism is incorporated into the shelf in a way that would require either an obscene amount of modding to keep them functional. Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawiinci Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 ...I'd like remove the shelf and replace it with a flat shelf. However, I don't want to remove it simply to find out the latch mechanism is incorporated into the shelf in a way that would require either an obscene amount of modding to keep them functional. ... This might help you: http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php...4525&st=79# I have the problem that HDD is vibrating. Is there any easy way to fix that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrootWitBaas Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Short answer Yes if you replace it with a SSD But on the specific drive no, not easy. It should not vibrate if it is working correctly so I will suggest you replace it soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawiinci Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Short answer Yes if you replace it with a SSD But on the specific drive no, not easy. It should not vibrate if it is working correctly so I will suggest you replace it soon Well I guess I'm very sensitive to it so I hear the least vibration from fans or HDDs. However I removed the HDD tray (not so easy without removing the separator) and inserted a tray that sits on rubber. No vibrations anymore. I will soon enhance it by a SSD but I can't replace the traditional HDD because I need more space. DVI: I think I will cut the cable and splice it back together. I don't want to cut anything on the case because it makes no sense. My next graphics will for sure have Displayport. I have some cables in spare if it doesn't work. Cooling: I have two 120 fans in the front, one for the graphics (passive) and one for the CPU (low rpm). Remember my motherboard is at the left side so the cool air points directly on the hottest parts of the system. One 80 cools the HDD (in the middle at the top shelf) and two fans (120/80) take out the hot air from the PSU and the rest of the case. The PSU is not blowing out directly. What do you think could I save the one 80 or even both fans in the back? My plan is the air that comes in has to go out anyway. I just have a 120 in the rear for the PSU. All Fans run @5V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrootWitBaas Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I had no vibrations from the g5 before it packed in, and I was using noisy old drives. I will reuse the same tray as it worked nicely. not sure if you use the original hdd tray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawiinci Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I had no vibrations from the g5 before it packed in, and I was using noisy old drives. I will reuse the same tray as it worked nicely. not sure if you use the original hdd tray Yes, I used the original tray. Compared to now I heard much more rattling noise and a constant vibration. The disk isn't damaged it's just a server model. However this disk is only temporarily. The original cage had another bad effect: the cooling was much worse. I think all the plastic is just a good insulator and it also blocks the air flow. It's about 6° C cooler now. Interesting is because I removed the two fans at the top I could lower the CPU temperature by 3° C. I guess it's because hot air flows to the top shelf. (the fans didn't work properly - were too loud @5V) Overall the temperatures in this case are fantastic. EDIT: I managed to fit the DVI cable through the hole for the power connector. I just removed the plastic from the plug and removed the metal bezel. It fits perfectly and it is almost no effort to do it. Now all my cables enter through this hole at the bottom, the back is vanilla clean and the cables are easy to hide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technochicken Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Here's my G5 mod. I tried to keep it looking as stock as possible. I rewired all the fans to run off 5V, although I ended up not using the HDD fans because of clearance issues. Everything on the front panel works except for audio, which I can't seem to figure out. This case actually is holding a full length ATX motherboard, but I don't use the last three slots. Specs: Phenom II X3 710 Gigabyte GA MA770-UD3 GeForce 9800GTX+ Geforce 8500gt 4 Gb DDR2 667 CoolIt E.C.O. 320 + 500 Gb HDD's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eelhead Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Looks great man awesome job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zammykoo Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Everything on the front panel works except for audio, which I can't seem to figure out. Very clean! Did you hook the audio wires to your F_AUDIO slot on the mobo? If you are and still not working it could also be a software setting. If you're running windows you can try and check this box: "Disable front panel jack detection" in your audio manager settings. It worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technochicken Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 If you are and still not working it could also be a software setting. If you're running windows you can try and check this box: "Disable front panel jack detection" in your audio manager settings. It worked for me. That worked. Thanks for the tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zammykoo Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 That worked. Thanks for the tip! no problem, glad it worked out for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technochicken Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 One last pic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hennahacker Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Small question; in order to remove the grey case locking mechanism, how does one remove the actual hooks that hold the case shut? I need to remove the top plate to get at the wiring, but I can't seem to work out this small problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technochicken Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 This post explains how: http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php...st&p=156892 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hennahacker Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Thanks :3 I was puzzling on that for a while, I never noticed the little clips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rorydaredking Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Just got a LianLi motherboard tray. FINALLY!!! kustompcs.co.uk have 2 left in stock. I can't wait for the end of term so I can finally do my rear mod properly. 10 months after I started haha. Also, anyone know if a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade will be able to cut the case, or does it have to be a rotary type (dremel esque) cutter to have proper success? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eelhead Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Just got a LianLi motherboard tray. FINALLY!!!kustompcs.co.uk have 2 left in stock. I can't wait for the end of term so I can finally do my rear mod properly. 10 months after I started haha. Also, anyone know if a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade will be able to cut the case, or does it have to be a rotary type (dremel esque) cutter to have proper success? Yeah a little jigsaw will work fine, that's what I used to cut the back out and my PSU mod. http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=255820 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spackley Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Funny but there were 6 a week ago and I bought one of them too... Just got a LianLi motherboard tray. FINALLY!!!kustompcs.co.uk have 2 left in stock. I can't wait for the end of term so I can finally do my rear mod properly. 10 months after I started haha. Also, anyone know if a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade will be able to cut the case, or does it have to be a rotary type (dremel esque) cutter to have proper success? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NurkJon Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 G'day, I'm searching for the G5 Logic board back I/O pinout. I read through all of the G5 modding threads available and was unable to locate this information. It was posted here around page 34-37 or so, but all of the images have since been moved/no longer exist. http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/index.php...mp;#entry977693 Could anyone else provide me with this resource? It would certainly assist my project in coming along more smoothly. Thanks! Did you ever find the pin out? I'm looking for this as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NurkJon Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I'm currently working on my G5 mod and ran into another problem I want to reuse the original sata power cable however there only seem to be 4 cables on the G5 sata power while a normal have 5 so I don't know which cable should connect to which cable on the ATX PSU and which cable I'm supposed to skip. I soldered at needle to my multimeter tip and made the measurements myself. So for anyone who might need I decided to put the "pinout" here. I'm calling the cable closest to sata power pin 1 for #1 and going up to right. # Color code Description #1 Black GND for sata power pin 4, 5, 6 #2 Red +5VDC #3 Black GND sata power pin 10, 11 ,12 #4 Yellow +12VDC It's the orange +3.3VDC that's "missing". I hope this is helpful for someone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rorydaredking Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I'm currently working on my G5 mod and ran into another problem I want to reuse the original sata power cable however there only seem to be 4 cables on the G5 sata power while a normal have 5 so I don't know which cable should connect to which cable on the ATX PSU and which cable I'm supposed to skip. I soldered at needle to my multimeter tip and made the measurements myself. So for anyone who might need I decided to put the "pinout" here. I'm calling the cable closest to sata power pin 1 for #1 and going up to right. # Color code Description #1 Black GND for sata power pin 4, 5, 6 #2 Red +5VDC #3 Black GND sata power pin 10, 11 ,12 #4 Yellow +12VDC It's the orange +3.3VDC that's "missing". I hope this is helpful for someone. Ive definitely seen someone use them. Might have been over at tonymac, ut I am sure. Keep looking, I am sure you will find what you need! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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