Ira Aduro Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Another small update, finalized idea for slot dvd holder. Using similar technique to what I'll be doing for the PSU. I'm using the bolts along the top of the case insides to support the holder which is basically just a piece of aluminum the DVD attaches to most likely via strong two sided tape as the DVD is extremely light. I can always add better support later if needed. Crude sketchups attached. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Oh, if you are looking for rubber trim to go around holes and what not, the prices on these sites are pretty good. http://www.mcmaster....molding/=lgluqp http://www.bestbyte.net/merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BB&Product_Code=CACM01CSM&Category_Code=CACM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Gentlemen. This is a wonderful development. So, I took the template Sheriff made and tweaked it to fit the way I want my UD5H motherboard to fit in the G5. The dashed horizontal line is where I plan on cutting the case and the template so I don't have to mess with the PCIE slots and locking mechanism. But the general idea is you can use this template to cut out a new backplate that perfectly matches the holes of the original G5 while giving you an ATX compliant rear IO area. The original fans have been moved closer to the far side so if you want to use the original CPU shield you'll need to modify the plastic fan holder, but that should be fairly straight forward. This is a rough sketch in that I don't know 100% sure the rear IO area should start where it does. It's hard to measure accurately with the ruler I have since I have to bend it while it is in the case. I'll print this out soon and see how it fits. Hopefully once I'm 99% sure the measurements are dead on I can find someone local to cut this out since I'll probably take a few revisions to get ti 100% right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Looks like the holes didn't show up in that attachment, I'll put a better version up later. In the meantime, started work on a modified version of the middle divider, keeping place for CPU front fans and adding places for a slide in HDD rack. Keeping the same armature that bends up and attaches to the case wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickjf20 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Looking good! Subbed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Thanks, and thanks for the sub. Found a great use for all those DVD-RWs I never can really use! Check out what's keeping the front CPU inlet up. Besides that did some more test fittings, trying to figure out where to put the HDs. Right behind the top shelf fan/speaker would be great for cooling them, however it is a bit tight and right next to the GPU (heat!) After all this fanegaling I'll probably end up back where I started with HDs in top compartment. Hopefully in the next few days I'll have time to get some prototypes done and start test fitting. btw - the last of hte photos attached, what in the world is that object? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatTheTech Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 It's the PCI Card guide: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-922-5958-PowerMac-G5-PCI-Card-Guide-815-7388-/390423211190 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 It almost perfectly fits a 2.5" drive between the guides. If only it had 5 guides instead of 4 I could use it for HDD mounting. EDIT: I'll be getting some foam core tomorrow to start building prototype middle dividers and back plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Question - the late 2005 G5s has that "channel" for the wireless antenna. Anyone know how well that works? As in I was thinking about including that in the new rear plate template I'm making. Does the antenna need to be a certain length to pick up a strong signal? Went to the art store today about bought a few sheets of Canson Art Board 16"x20". It is the perfect thickness and rigidity for concepting a middle divider or other parts. I will hold even a heavy PSU in place yet is fairly to cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonestonne Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Nothing wrong with putting the HDs next to the GPU. Think of your direction of airflow, and the space between the parts. The tail end of the GPU that will be next to the hard drives will be one of the coolest parts of the card. The channel for the wireless antenna is more to keep it neat than anything else. I have seen even some late model G5's have problems with wireless connections, but I could never figure out why, and I don't have access to the machines anymore to find out. As far as cable length, I would go a minimum of 6 inches. An alternative is to have a small USB wireless adapter on the back of the motherboard. A whole lot easier than sorting out the internals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Can that 6 inches be winding back and forth or does it need to be straight. I agree a USB adapter is easier, but I already have an apple airport card which I'd like to keep using. I can run tests before I place the back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonestonne Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Working in radio, I would say it should be straight, clear of obstructions, and not have interfering electronics in close proximity. That said, working in a computer shop, I would keep it straight for as long as you can, with the end of the antenna being outside the case, and shielded by plastic, not metal. Think of a laptop, the antenna go around the LCD edges, which gives it straight lines, and is only surrounded by plastic generally, which gives it less insulation, and in turn, a better signal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatTheTech Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Definitely what bonestonne says. Now that I've taken apart both G5 editions, a Mac Pro, an iMac and several Apple laptops, I can definitely confirm that straight lines (or at least, the lack of loops) is the way they go. I'm currently working on a monster bluetooth mod which I hope works - I'm hoping to make up for the lack of cable length by using a wifi adapter-style antenna... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 You guys rock! I feel like I'm part of a mad scientist group concocting hair brain contraptions. Ok one more question, if you have two antennas can the be 3" instead of one 6"? Btw I found on ebay a mini PCI to USB adapter board. Opens up possibilities for WiFi and Bluetooth placement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatTheTech Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Btw I found on ebay a mini PCI to USB adapter board. Opens up possibilities for WiFi and Bluetooth placement! This is similar to what I'm doing. I'm going to connect this to this, wire in my Apple bluetooth module to the USB portion on the board and then use the large antenna. I saw something similar for a non-OSX HTPC build so that the person could control the computer via a bluetooth remote in a medium-sized hall for presentations. Apparently it had 100ft of range with no signal drop - I'll add the link when I find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Ok, here's the part I was thinking of: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150958020609?var=450144555625&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 So, would two 3" antennas work as well as one 6" antenna? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhatTheTech Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Quick question, why is it that you want to use this adapter in particular? Simply so that you can place it via USB? I only mention it, because that price is a little prohibitive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 I was searching for a PCI to USB and it's the only one I found. I was tinkering with the idea of placing the wifi card at the bottom of the case and then running the antenna out of one of the four holes where the PSU normally mounts into and along the bottom of the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.D. Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I didn't even know that animal existed - pretty sweet idea. Especially if you have an internal USB header to standard USB plug adapter inside your rig, then its all internal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 Yes! Also this would work. But yeah I think a solution like that would move away from needing to use up a PCI slot on the back and let you run the antenna where you wanted. The adapter is a bit pricey but there is probably someone selling it for cheaper. EDIT: Tonight I printed out the midsection template, adhered it to artboard and cut it out. I'm attaching images of the results. I got the placement of quite a few things wrong (attachment arm, cpu shield attachers) so rev. 2 will be coming out soon. I'm loving the artboard for rapid prototyping. It can hold a good amount of weight with little bend and you can easily cut it with a cardboard knife. Still trying to nail down where the hard drives will be. In the first photo you can see four slide in slots for a possible HD tray. If I reuse part of the original G5 motherboard I could cut out a hole and mount the sata connectors through the motherboard to make it look like the HDs are connecting into the motherboard. Seems like a lot of work though for a gimmick. Probably will just go standard hotswap HD tray. btw - while helping move the company I do IT support for I came across this curious plastic bit. There were a few of them just lying around the construction site. They seem like they are just the right size to route round sata cables through. Anyone have an idea as to what they are? No one was around when I found them but I'll ask around tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.D. Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I nearly went that route, but I didn't need another cable to manage in my system so I just went with the adapter - plus, for the same price, I got two USB ports! Have I mentioned that I'm also cheap?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonestonne Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Make two 6" antennas. Without a doubt, you want the end of the antenna to be outside the case for the best signal quality. I've seen G5's completely drop the signal with the side panel on, but work great with it open. You figure it out... There are wifi+bluetooth combo miniPCI-e cards, and the bluetooth works using the same antenna as laptop wifi cards. Signal is great, and reduces components for serious modders if you're interested. Logic Supply has the best ones available, and they're pretty cheap as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 Check this adapter out. Slap in one of these. Connect via USB, boom! Btw - anyone know how these connect to the macbook pro they come from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonestonne Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 The unibody airport express cards connect to the logic board with a ribbon cable, not a standard mPCI-e connector. Also, real quick I want to stress the fact that mSATA and mPCI-e are completely different interfaces. The physical connector is identical, but if you put a mPCI-e wireless card into that mSATA USB adapter, one or both device will fail. On some of the more recent (only the past 22 months about), motherboards which have mPCI-e slots are also compatible with mSATA SSDs, however not all are. This is something to research very carefully to prevent killing gear. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Aduro Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 Ok, it said it used the standard 52 pin mini PCIE connector so I assumed it would work. EDIT: did some research. The reason plugging an mSATA SSD into mPCIE wouldn't work is the older mPCIE ports had no connection to the memory controller. This would be Z68 and older motherboards. Modern motherboards do have the needed connection so plugging a mSATA SSD into a mPCIE port would work. For my purposes I want to plug a mPCIE WWAN card into an external mSATA enclosure which converts to USB. That *should* work as well since mechanically the the connectors are the same and since it is being "translated" through the USB controller you don't run into problems with signals going to the wrong place due to how the connectors are on the motherboard. Or at least this is my understand of what I read. Now my problem is 1) the external enclosures are kind of pricey 2) and since I'm trying to make a G5 hack that can easily be followed, price is a consideration. Which kind of sucks because running the wifi antenna out of the bottom of the case would be an aesthetically pleasing way to integrate wifi without having antenna sticking out the back of the case, plus it would free up a PCIE slot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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